Miracle Mudd® is easy. Place a quantity of the liquid in a container
(I use old coffee cans) and add the powder a little at a time. Mix
thoroughly, adding more liquid or powder as needed. Once it appears
to be the preferred consistency (this will vary according to individual
preference) allow it to set for a couple of minutes and stir again.
It is wise to apply Miracle Mudd™ with an applicator of
some kind, rather than your hands - duh. My preference is a large "stenciling" brush
with the bristles cropped short. Work in a circular motion to push
the mixture under the leaves of the came.
Once all of the lead has been sealed (when cementing a large
panel work in sections) sprinkle the whole panel liberally with Whiting
or Sawdust or whatever your cleanup medium might be. Lightly brush
it over the surface, and allow it to set for a minimum of fifteen minutes.
Depending on the weather conditions, cleanup can begin immediately,
but if the weather is cool or damp, wait the minimum time. If it is
warm and dry, begin cleaning immediately.
It is important that Miracle Mudd™ be cleaned from the lead
came surface and any textured glass promptly, or it will be difficult
to impossible to remove once it has had time to set up.
Using whatever stick or tool is your preference (I use a 1/4"
dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener) trim the excess cement from
the edges of the came - vacuum off - then using a bristled brush
(I use a "bench" brush with shortened bristles) brush in
a circular motion to loosen the cement from the surface of the glass
and came. Vacuum again. Polish the surface of the lead with terry
cloth or a polishing brush designed for this purpose, available
from your local retailer, to shine and darken the lead. Then finish
any trimming and clean any "blurring" from the glass.
In most cases, the panel can be turned and the other side
done right away. If it is a large panel, allowing it to set for a
day and then doing the other side, will make handling much easier.
If you are using Miracle Mudd® in the large "studio"
size, store your liquid in an old vinegar bottle or similar glass container.
Over a long period of time the liquid will begin "soaking"
through the soft plastic bottle.
Terry cloth is very good for getting the cement out of glue
chip and similar textures, as long as it is done promptly. It requires
some elbow grease. Don't wait!
If you have a "loose" panel to cement, mix the Miracle
Mudd® fairly thick to avoid having it run through to the other
On really large panels, I solder, cement and clean one
side, wait two days and turn it and solder and cement the other side.
Mix it thick for the first side and it won't interfere with the soldering
on the other side.
If you do get some soaking through that makes the joints difficult
to solder, don't use a wire brush. Using a wire brush works
the oil into the lead, instead of cleaning it off. Rather, slice off
the affected area with a sharp craft knife and then solder.
• Miracle Mudd® is much easier to mix if you add the dry
to the liquid, rather than adding the liquid to the dry.
you would like to contribute a helpful hint of your own, email us
and we'll be glad to add it.
MSDS - DRY POWDER
MSDS - LIQUID